If you have dogs and don't want to use commercial pest control products and medications on them, consider the following alternatives:
Wormwood capsules (or black walnut/wormwood combination) can be opened and mixed with the food daily (or given directly by mouth). Ask your health store owner, but generally one capsule is sufficient for small to medium dogs, and larger breeds may require 2 capsules per day. Giant breeds will probably require at least 3 capsules daily. If capsules are a problem, these herbs are generally available in liquid form. These herbs will help fight worms and intestinal parasites.
For
fleas, consider brewer's yeast given orally. This is often available in powder as well as wafer form, and many dogs will eat them willingly.
Fleas are also repelled by a number of essential oils. Lavender oil has been particularly useful for us. Generally we mix lavender oil with water in a plant mister and spray the dog's coat thoroughly with the mixture. This will also relax dogs, and can help calm a hyper pooch.
Ducklings - part 3If you have considered everything and decided to get ducklings anyway, we hope this information will be helpful.
As mentioned in the first duckling post, they will need constant warm temperatures and protection from drafts. The simplest container could be a large cardboard box. However, due to their wet droppings and desire for water play, expect to change this box often. Some days we used 2 boxes within 1 day, and sometimes they last 4 days or so. Generally you can expect 2-3 days max from a cardboard box. And by the time they reach about 2-3 weeks old, a cardboard box will no longer do and they will have to have more permanent quarters, although still inside and heated unless in a very warm climate (80-85 degrees at 2-3 weeks old).
If you can afford it, a very large plastic container or aquarium is much more suitable and durable, as the sides can be cleaned of their droppings. Again though, expect it to be outgrown in a few weeks.
Heat can be provided by a lamp with a reflector. These are generally available at hardware stores and relatively inexpensive. You can use anything from a 100-watt white light bulb (if your temperatures are already pretty warm) up to a 250 watt heat lamp. Care should be taken that the hot parts do not touch cardboard, etc. or anything flammable. In very cold climates, or where the ducklings are not checked frequently, it can be a good idea to have 2 lamps so they will not get too chilled if one goes out.
Heat should be placed in one area of the box, so that if they get too hot, they can move away from it. The temperature can be regulated by raising or lowering the bulb. Make sure the ducklings cannot touch any overheated part and be burned. Also make sure their water cannot come in contact with electrical parts.
The simplest bedding is newspaper, which must be covered with paper toweling so that the slickness of the paper does not cause their legs to slip and become deformed. If you choose this method, be prepared to change it VERY often, most likely a few times a day. Also watch that they do not begin to eat the wet paper.
Pine shavings are also good bedding, but again must be changed when wet. Wet bedding can promote growth of molds and bacteria, which can make the ducklings (and possibly you) sick.
Screening or hardware cloth can also be ideal, if slightly raised to allow water to drip below, keeping the cage drier and being much easier to maintain. (You can use 2 x 2's or similar along the sides under the wire to raise it.) However, wire is hard on ducklings' feet, so you will need to cover it with paper toweling and keep that changed. Watch that their toenails do not become caught in screening.
Drafts are prevented by using glass, plexiglass, plastic, or cardboard containers. However, if you use a wire cage, you can prevent drafts by surrounding the cage with cardboard or covering it with heavy cloth or a blanket.
Feed should be waterfowl starter, if you can find it. Otherwise you can use poultry starter, but check the protein ratio. Rations meant for growing meat chickens are too high in protein and can cause various problems in ducklings. Food MUST be kept clean, dry and insect free during storage. Discard any feed that becomes wet (or that looks like it has gotten wet before you bought it). The food container (we use a sliding tray chick feeder for ducklings) should be carefully washed and completely dried before being filled. They should have a constant supply of feed, but not more than they will use before you have to clean the container. You will quickly learn how much to feed them, although you will have to constantly adjust the amount as they grow. They may also be provided with weeds from outdoors as long as they have not been sprayed with herbicides or pesticides or pulled from close to the road (due to car exhaust). They may be fed small amounts of hardboiled eggs (remove quickly to avoid spoilage) and small amounts of fruits and veggies (avoid uncooked potatoes). If foods other than commercial feed are provided, a grit should also be provided. (They can get grit from the soil if they are allowed to freely dig up weeds.)
Water MUST be provided with the dry feed or they could choke. Water should be clean and available at all times. You will need to use a feeder that allows them to get their heads in without allowing them to splash in it. Also, a guard that keeps them from climbing on top of either the feeder or the waterer and eliminating in it will keep it clean longer.
Speaking of food and water, very young ducklings may not yet know how to eat or drink. You should dip each one's head in the food and water when you introduce them to their new home. Watch and make sure that each one is eating, drinking, and eliminating.
Young ducklings benefit greatly from being allowed outside for a short time during the day if it is warm enough and you can provide them a protected area. It should be escape proof, safe from predators (including pet dogs and cats as well as hawks, etc.) and should not have been treated with chemicals. They will enjoy pulling at grasses and weeds and digging in the dirt, and may find a few bugs. Eating small amounts of dirt or tiny rocks are beneficial and not dangerous. They should be inside a pen, because even if they waddle clumsily in their boxes, they can very early begin to run quite fast if they want to escape and can be hard to catch again. They should not be allowed to swim until they grow their feathers in, since there is no mother duck to provide oil for their feathers or to make them get out of the water before becoming chilled.
Ducklings - part 2Those downy balls of fuzz have their good sides as well. They ARE cute, no getting around it. They also have quite a bit of personality. Our 4 ducklings are just over 1 week old now, and each is very distinct. We have the friendly one, the bully, the shy one, and (unfortunately, poor guy) the stupid one.
They have all been handled several times daily, and one of them seems actually to enjoy it. He lies down in our hands as soon as we pick him up, and lets his head loll as we gently rub his neck until he is completely limp. He will sometimes groom us gently with his bill.
Speaking of the bill, when they DO get upset, they are not really biters. But when they try, they are not strong enough at this age to even give a pinch. The claws are growing out and sometimes scratch though.
We purchased ducks not for the sake of Easter pets, but because they are great pest control. Although we do expect they will generate mess and mud in the yard, we are planning to take steps to keep this to a minimum (as much as possible) and letting them roam the backyard in search of bugs. They already chase anything tiny that moves, and try to eat it, and have eaten a few moths and gnats. They are excellent for slugs, especially, and can be a gardeners best friend (assuming you can keep them from uprooting young plants).
Some ducks (Muscovies) are even able to kill snakes, and will gladly do so. (Another advantage distinct to Muscovies is that they are much quieter than other ducks. The females tend to make quiet hissing noises rather than quacks, and the males are silent.)
They are also very entertaining to watch, especially if you have ample space and (preferably) a place for them to swim. The swimming water needs to be either an ecosystem with plants, fish, etc. or something that you can easily dump and clean. The ducks will be happier and healthier, as well as cleaner, if given swimming opportunity. However, care must be taken that they are able to get out of the water as they may drown if they become tired and cannot climb out. Also, your swimming pool is not a good choice as they will quickly dirty the water and the chemicals are not good for them.
Female ducks of course lay eggs as well. Duck eggs have larger yolks and are richer than chicken eggs. They are especially nice for baking. However, ducks prefer laying in more secluded spots and may not be as easy to gather as chickens who are easier to train to lay in a provided nest box.
That's all for today. More practical aspects given next time, for those who have decided after all to get ducklings.
Ducklings - part 1
There's nothing cuter than a fuzzy duckling waddling around, and their cute downy fluffiness reminds us of Easter cards and springtime. Many indulgent and perhaps well-meaning parents and others are tempted by the offerings at local feed and farm stores this time of year.
Please, before you give in to that bundle of downy cuteness, think carefully.
Newly hatched ducklings require a special environment. They must be kept at a fairly constant 90 degrees the first week, and decreased by 5 degrees per week thereafter. They must be shielded from drafts, and protected from predators, including pet cats and dogs. While they are sturdy enough to stand up to a little bit of handling (more so than baby chicks), they ARE baby birds and need to be handled very carefully. They can be killed if dropped, or die from rough handling or being handled too much. They also don't really LIKE to be held and petted, especially at first. They are social creatures, with their own kind, and may cry incessantly if kept alone. One should really have at least 3.
They are hardier than some other newly hatched poultry, and fairly disease resistant, but that is only if kept in a proper environment. Their cage needs to be kept clean and dry, and this can be incredibly challenging with ducklings, because they will try to climb into their water, play in it, etc. However, they must be prevented from doing so, as there will be no mother duck to provide oil for their feathers or prevent them becoming chilled. They absolutely MUST have clean water at all times, because they can choke from eating food without having water to wash it down. They quickly soil their water, meaning the container will need to be cleaned and refilled several times a day, generally. Also, they create LOTS of droppings with a large water content, so their cage may need to be cleaned up to several times a day, depending on your setup.
Those who keep both chickens and ducks will tell you that ducks are easily 4 times as much work as chickens. They also have somewhat of an odor, again depending on how clean you keep them. However, we sometimes completely change all bedding and wash all containers 6 times a day, and still there is a slight odor.
They can also be rather noisy when grown, at least the females. Males are generally quiet.
That's most of the bad news. We will offer some of their positive points in our next post!
