Pet blog offers advice and pet information, anecdotes and humor, website and product reviews, pet food recall information, and much more.
Author has owned a variety of pets, owned a pet shop, grew up around livestock, has degrees in biology, worked on animal breeding projects, raised and trained German Shepherd Dogs, and been involved with animals for many years.
We talked about several methods to help with separation anxiety in dogs, but if the situation is serious, some amount of behavior modification will be needed. If your dog is not obedience trained, you should begin that as well. But obedience training will not cure separation anxiety. It is merely a tool to enable you to work with your dog.
Assuming she does know basic commands, start off like this:
Put your down on a down, and tell her to stay. It's a good idea to develop a "goodbye" cue. I ALWAYS tell my dogs "Be a good boy/girl" before I leave, as it helps establish a routine. Then step out of her sight, around a corner, and count to three (if she can hold her stay that long). Step back within her sight and CALMLY greet her and tell her she's good, and return to her side. Repeat this step many times until she is calm with you stepping out of sight, and along the way begin varying the amount of time you are gone ... count 2, 5, 3, 7, 4, etc. Also you can gradually lengthen the time you stay out of sight, but this part of the exercise should not really go on with you being around the corner more than about 3 minutes.
Next, begin getting her used to you leaving the home. Calmly tell her "be a good girl" and step outside the door and close it. IMMEDIATELY open the door and come back in, and calmly tell her she's good. At no time should you make a big fuss over her. This exercise should go like the last one. After she becomes used to you stepping out and immediately back in, wait several seconds. Then begin waiting different lengths of time. You will not want to leave her on a "stay" when you leave the house, so let her do as she pleases during this phase.
The key is to let your dog slowly learn that when you leave, you WILL be coming back. You ALWAYS come back. It may be a short while, or you may be gone longer, but either way, she can count on you to return. That is the purpose of this kind of training.
You should see improvement with these methods. If there is any sign of regressing back into anxiety, slow down and back up the process a little. Routines can also be VERY important for dogs like this, so have a regular time and method for walking her, feeding her, playtime, and other aspects of her life. All of these things (including those from our first post on the topic) will help her feel more secure.
Dogs with separation anxiety often chew things bearing their owner's scent
Question from our reader: My dog is really needy. If I leave her alone, she tears things up (usually my shoes!), and when I am home she always has to be right beside me and follows me everywhere. If I go in a room and shut the door, she scratches up the door and just whines. Any time I leave, she acts as though I've been gone forever when I come home, even if I only went to check the mail. I'm going to have to start working soon, she is going to go crazy! What can I do?
It sounds like your dog has separation anxiety. We do see this a lot, so don't feel that you are alone.
There are a number of things you can do to help her.
Share the burden - First, if there is anyone else in the household and she is just overly attached to you, try having someone else feed her, walk her, play with her, and otherwise take care of her. That part is simple, but it can be helpful if the anxiety is directly only at you.
Give your dog a "security blanket" -- such as an old shirt that you've worn, but not washed. Having her lie down with it before you leave can help soothe her.
Prevent boredom -- Toys that stimulate a dog to do something, such as the treat balls that make a dog work to get the treat inside, can be a good distraction.
Remain calm -- Whenever you leave or return, do NOT make a big deal out of it. Make sure you accept comings and goings in a matter of fact way, or your dog will pick up on your cues and worsen the situation.
Provide a safe room -- Many people advocate the use of a crate in situations like this. While it can be helpful if the anxiety is very mild, it can actually backfire if the situation is more severe. If your dog is truly frantic at being left alone, she may even injure herself in her attempts to get out of the crate. It is much better if she has more freedom in a larger area of the house, though of course you are interested in putting her in a place where she won't destroy everything.
Calming supplements -- We often recommend Bach's Rescue Remedy added to the drinking water, which is a low-dose homeopathic remedy. It is easily found at natural health stores, some pet stores, or purchased online. If you choose to ask about herbal supplements at a health food store, make sure that the person helping you is very knowledgeable about herbal use in dogs, or double-check with your veterinarian, as some things safe for humans cannot be used for pets. Your vet may also suggest something stronger, but we suggest if you go that route, you combine it with other methods and aim to get the dog weaned off any tranquilizing medications as soon as possible.
Behavior modification -- Most importantly, if her reactions are severe, it is time to start teaching her to realize that when you leave -- you WILL be back! We will explore this in our next post on the topic, Retraining a needy dog.
Does your tabby track across your kitchen table ... after she leaves her litter box? Is your little tiger intent on shredding your new couch? Maybe you have a fat cat that likes to steal food from the counter tops? Whatever your little beast is up to, there are tools you can use to help train out bad behavior.
Following are five common (and not-so-common) solutions to your cat-training problems.
Shaker cans - these are made by taking a small can and filling it with 20-40 pennies, and taping a lid on the can. They work by means of startling the cat. You must catch the cat in the behavior you want to discourage, and shake the can, making a loud noise. The problem with this method is that cats are pretty smart, and will quickly figure out that you are the one shaking the can, and simply act on their impulses when you aren't there to see them. However, they CAN be very effective if used very sparingly.
Spray bottles - have exactly the same drawbacks as shaker cans, and are even more likely to tip the cat off that YOU are the driving force behind the spritz of water. Not only that, but you really don't want to spray water in the cat's ears, etc. so care must be taken.
Double sided tape - Cats HATE to get their paws on anything sticky, so double-sided tape can be a good deterrent. Place where the cat likes to scratch on furniture, on counter tops the cat wants to cruise, on carpet sections where the cat is trying to dig, etc. There are commercial products available as well, such as "Sticky Paws" which comes on a roll like tape, and also in large sheets, making application easier
SSSCat - this is an innovative little product, basically canned air with a motion sensor. Placed in a location you want to deter cat's misbehavior, the can senses movement and releases a hissing blast of air, which is completely harmless to the cat, but because of the sound and unexpected sensation are a GREAT deterrent. It does get used up, but the good thing is that the cat will recognize the can itself, and will avoid anywhere you place one. Placed creatively, this can stop almost all cat behavior problems.
Cookie sheets - can be helpful if your cat jumps on counters, tabletops, or other surfaces you don't want him on. You may need a lot of them though if there is a lot of surface area. Basically, if you line the cookie sheets up hanging about 1/2 of the sheets off the edge, the cat will view it as part of the surface and leap onto the cookie sheet, which will most likely fall to the floor with a crashing sound, dropping your cat along with it. This will prove so upsetting to the cat, he probably won't take long to stop jumping up.
Now, I will say that I have not had to resort to many of these with my own cats. I have found cats to train much like dogs, and to seek affection and approval. Generally, I have watched my kittens just as I do young puppies, and just clap my hands and say "NO!" when they are about to do something they are not supposed to do, and by the time they are grown, there just aren't any issues. I also keep food off the counters so there is nothing up there to tempt them, and keep them in a "safe room" when I am not there to supervise, so that bad behaviors never become established.
Except for plant-nibbling. That is in a category all its own at my house. I sometimes plant catnip and grasses for my indoor cats because they love chewing on plants SO much, and I have to keep my houseplants out of easy reach. I also make sure to avoid poisonous plants, because it's just not worth the risk. Some owners have had good results with bitter apple spray, or mixing lemon juice with water and misting the plant with it.
Many cats enjoy chewing grasses and other plants
Litter-box issues and elimination problems are a separate issue, and we will be addressing those in an upcoming post.
Question: Our new puppy LOVES cat food, and is always eating from the cat's bowl. Can we just feed him cat food, since no one is eating dog food?
Most dogs do enjoy the taste of cat food and would happily eat it in place of their regular meals if they could get it. However, the protein levels are much higher in cat food, and several other nutrients are different as well. Dogs (depending on age and breed) are very likely to develop problems ranging from diarrhea to growth and skin problems and much more if they are fed cat food.
If you have a cat, you very likely also have a litter box, and that is something else your puppy will probably eat if he can get to it. The answer is that you will have to provide your cat a separate place to eat and toilet that the puppy can't get to.
Depending on how large your pets are, how athletic, etc. a number of solutions are possible. You may be able to raise the cat food up so that the dog can't reach it, though this is less practical for a litter box. A separate room could be used for the cat's necessities and a baby gate or other barrier to keep the puppy out that will allow the cat to jump over might work. Once our puppies passed a certain size (and we usually had German Shepherds, so it didn't take long), we used to use one of those sliding chain door locks mounted vertically outside the cat's room so that the door would open far enough for the cat, but not allow the dog through.
Cats and dogs living together present special concerns
Your cat will probably also appreciate having resting places where it can escape the rambunctiousness of a new puppy, if he hasn't already taught the puppy to respect his rest. Elevated cat trees or shelves, or simply allowing the cat in his own room or up onto furniture that the puppy can't get on would probably make your cat happy, and help promote harmony between the pair.
I used to watch It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia when it came on but I didn't really watch it that much in the past couple of seasons. I've graduated college and are constantly traveling because of my work, so my schedule has been a little different and my priorities don't exactly include watching all of my favorite TV shows when they come one. Well, the new season of It's Always Sunny premiered and I actually caught it. It reminded me of how much I love that show and I decided to catch up on last season in my spare time.
I used my wireless internet Waco to add the discs from the past couple of seasons that I missed to my queue and am going to make an effort to work them into my schedule to watch, like when I get home from work.
I had really forgotten about how in love I am with It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia. It's just so laugh out loud funny that I almost choked on the popcorn I was eating when I saw the season premiere.
This is a very common problem, faced by most people with new kittens. While kittens that are separated from their litter-mates and mother are the worst offenders, any kitten can get excited during play and begin scratching or biting.
Many owners make the mistake of treating the kitten like a puppy and try direct means of stopping the behavior, but harsh scolding, hitting, or punishment rarely work. If anything, they will usually cause a kitten to learn that after he bites you, he must run away and hide.
Instead, you have to respond in a way the kitten understand. Try these tips:
1. If you are going to scold, don't be harsh. A simple, disapproving "No" is enough.
2. If you are holding the kitten, put her down immediately. Then stand up and turn your back, and cross your arms. Ignore her completely. You want her to feel that she is getting the cold shoulder from you.
3. One of the most important rules of animal training -- BE CONSISTENT!
4. Be patient. The first correction won't make much of an impact, but over time the kitten will make the connection that playing rough means the end of playtime. Most kittens will begin to behave better within a couple of days (you may see results even faster), and they usually stop biting altogether within a couple of weeks.
5. Deal with it right away. If you wait until the cat is older, it can be much harder to make her stop.
6. Consider getting the kitten a toy to wrestle with. Under no circumstances should you make a toy of your hand.
If you are looking for a wrestle-buddy toy for your kitten, try to find a safe stuffed animal (with no parts that can be chewed off and swallowed) that is about the same size as your kitten. An ideal kitty-wrestling-toy will not be too tightly stuffed but have some "floppiness" to it -- all the better if there are arms/legs that flop around so she can roll and wrestle with it if she likes.
Is there someone on your list who you know would love a new furry friend for Christmas? Are you imagining the excitement in your child's eyes when they open a wiggling package to discover a puppy inside?
Please reconsider.
If you are planning to gift someone else's household with a pet, whether it is to replace a beloved pet they've lost, or you think your grandchildren would benefit from having a pet to take care of, please please PLEASE don't make such a decision without involving the people who will be caring for the pet. It's always best to involve them in the selection process, if everyone agrees that a pet is a good idea and it IS wanted. Pets are a responsibility for the entire lifetime of the pet, or they should be, and it is a good idea for whoever is going to own the pet to be involved in choosing one.
If you as a parent have decided to give your child a kitten for Christmas, or maybe you have the parents' blessing to give a child a puppy, please don't give the actual pet on Christmas morning. Households have too much going on during the holidays, lots of noise and distraction, perhaps visitors or travel. Holiday decorations, lots of food being prepared ... this isn't a good environment to introduce a new family member.
Instead, why not give a stuffed puppy, along with a collar and leash, pet dishes, a bag of puppy food, a book on dog breeds or a book highlighting the chosen breed, etc. The child can still have the excitement of knowing that the pet is coming without running the risk of starting off all wrong because of holiday distractions. So many pets are added to homes on Christmas morning, only to be quickly resented because they don't become properly housebroken with all the flurry of activity, or they chew heirloom ornaments, or otherwise make a nuisance of themselves in ways that are not their fault -- they are only doing what animals do, but their new human family was too busy to oversee them. Don't add to that sad scenario .... wait until after the holidays and things settle down.
Not only that, but the shelters are likely to be crowded with new puppies and kittens in January who are suffering that exact fate. You may be able to rescue one of those unfortunate pets instead, and gain a lifelong friend in the bargain.
Many owners ask me this question. It's a very common behavior ... instead of digging a hole and squatting to urinate, some cats will sometimes back up to the side of their litter box and pee against the side, usually splashing urine over the side, onto the wall behind the litter box, etc.
These cats are marking their territory. Be glad in fact that they are doing it only in the litter box. Some things can help, such as making sure you have plenty of boxes if you have multiple cats (the standard advice is one for each cat plus one more) but even that may not help if your cats REALLY don't want to share. Feline calming pheromones like Feliway may help if the cat is feeling a bit stressed and is territorial for that reason.
Homemade litter boxes help solve cat elimination problems
But you need something to keep your home clean in the meantime, and in case these measures don't work. The best solution we have found in this case is to make the sides of the litter box higher so the cat CAN'T pee over them. This can be done by giving the can an enclosed litter pan with a lid, or by giving her a much larger box. Many of our clients have found large Rubbermaid type containers to be helpful in this, and a very economical solution (they are generally cheaper than litter pans of a smaller size).
As long as your cat is able to jump into the box, all you have to do is give her an open container with litter in the bottom in place of her other box. If you prefer an enclosed pan, or your cat can't jump that high or is too nervous to do so, you can cut an opening in one side for her to crawl through. Just make sure it's as high up as is practical for the cat.
These containers make good covered litter boxes too by cutting a hole in the side for the cat, and putting the lid back on. Some cats prefer closed boxes, but a few are nervous about them. If your cat is reluctant, try giving it to her as an open box at first, then putting the lid over only part of the top (securing it with heavy tape so that it does NOT fall on her and frighten her while she is using the litter box, or you can end up with more difficult litter box avoidance problems!). You can move it a bit at a time until it is snapped in place and the box is fully covered.
Does your cat use this sort of litter pan, or have you found something else that works? Let us know in the comments below!
Another recall due to high aflatoxin levels, this time from Advanced AnimalNutrition. Affected products include Dog Power Adult Maintenance Formula, Dog Power Hunters Formula, and Dog Power Hi-Pro Performance Formula, all 50 pound bags of dry dog food.
Please seek veterinary attention if your pet has eaten any of these and shows any signs of illness such as being sluggish or lethargic along with any reluctance to eat, vomiting, diarrhea, or yellow tint to eyes and/or gums.
Vet techs are normally expected to wear medical scrubs in the course of their work, and there are several advantages to this. Clients view the vet techs in a more professional light, and are more at ease with having their beloved pets handled by someone they have more confidence in. Durable scrubs also stand up to repeated washing, saving wear and tear of street clothes.
Finding well-made veterinary technician scrubs for a reasonable price should be the goal. Many tasks in a vet office risk soiling the uniform, so having a spare on hand is always wise. If the price is reasonable, it is possible to buy a week’s worth of scrubs and only have to launder once a week, which also saves some wear on the uniforms, even though they should be durable.
There are companies that sell cheap scrub uniforms that are made of inferior materials. Rather than saving a few dollars on the initial purchase, and then having to replace them sooner, it is better to purchase quality. There are companies that make quality scrubs, but offer a more simply designed line for a lower price. This option should assure quality uniforms at a reasonable price.
Still LOVE these videos ... if they are not appearing large enough, you might like to see them directly on youtube ... much as I hate to send readers away from our site!
Again, this is MY cat!!! (And if you have a cat, you'll probably see your cat in the videos too!)
I'm pretty sure that there's a group of people in a room somewhere that just dream up all kinds of holiday TV specials. It wouldn't surprise me that way. It seems like as soon as Halloween is over with, I'm hit with so many different ads for holidays specials on TV. It can be a little overwhelming at times. But it would be downright annoying if I didn't enjoy them.
I was online during some spare time the other day looking up some info on holiday specials so I would know to DVR them and while I was doing that I ran across some info on miracle ear. After I read through it some I decided to go and get a hearing aid test and get fitted with some hearing aids.
I'm not really sure which one so far is my Christmas TV special because i always have a clear winner at the end of the holiday season. I watch enough of them to where I think that I have a right to say which one is the best one.
We’ve talked about how to handle “oopsies” but the fact is, if you have pets and you have carpets, sooner or later your carpets will need some deeper cleaning (and maybe your upholstery as well). You can opt to handle the job yourself, but many of the products available at the consumer level are not as effective as those used by professionals, so you need to consider your options.
You should also look for “green products” that are safe for pets (and people too!). Many animals are especially sensitive to chemical cleaners and other products. Those with a tendency toward allergies can develop asthma as a result of being exposed to household chemicals. Instead, opt for a non-toxic carpet cleaner. Austin, Texas has even developed an initiative that rewards residents for taking steps to create a healthier, cleaner environment, and many more municipalities will probably follow suit.
If indoor urinating is an ongoing problem, you may need an odor neutralizer. Your pet should be kept away from the problem area until the odor is completely neutralized or else he will be drawn to the same area and repeat the behavior. In the case of cats, one suggestion that often helps is tinfoil laid out on the floor, since cats tend to dislike walking on the surface. You might also consider a canister of pressurized air that is motion activated, and shoots a small burst of air when the cat comes near. It is not at all harmful, but cats don’t like the stream of air, and will quickly learn to avoid the can. Once the odor is eliminated, you can usually allow your pet free access once again without issue. However, if the problem does continue, you may to consult with your veterinarian in order to rule out medical causes.
Iams announced that one lot of dog food had to be recalled due to high aflatoxin. The only pet food product included in the recall was Iams ProActive Health Smart Puppy dry puppy food.
Cargill Animal Nutrition is issuing a recall of two types of dry dog food – River Run and Marksman. The dog foods are reported to contain aflatoxin levels above established limits. No animals had been reported to be harmed by the foods as of this writing, and no other Cargill foods are affected. To see the full release, visit Cargill’s site at http://www.cargill.com/news/releases/2011/NA3052855.jsp
We are reporting this as a service to our readers, and sincerely hope that none of your pets are affected by this situation. Cargill is offering a full refund for any bags returned. If your pet shows any symptoms out of the ordinary and has eaten this food, report the news of the recall to your vet and have your pet seen immediately.
Mistletoe and holly, tinsel, lights and jolly! It's Christmas time, bringing joy into hearts everywhere. Unfortunately, it can also bring unseen danger to your pets, so here are a few things to look out for.
The Christmas tree can be an irresistible temptation, especially for cats, but often for other pets as well. It should be securely anchored to prevent your pet from knocking it over. Often shiny ornaments and tinsel are attractive to pets as well. Those that can be broken and swallowed may cut the animal’s mouth or intestines or cause other problems. Cats in particular tend to be drawn to shiny tinsel and garland and will often eat them if not prevented. You may need to put the tree in a different room from your pets, supervise them, or forgo dangerous decorations. One particularly cute trick to keep a dog away from the tree is to take large boxes, put heavy cinderblocks inside for weights, wrap them in festive paper, and use them to build a “fence” around the tree. This only works if your dog tends to respect barriers. I’ve had friends who placed the entire tree within a playpen to keep it safe from dogs and toddlers. The wires of Christmas lights can also be a danger if pets chew on them or the bulbs, and the water reservoir of a live tree can harbor harmful bacteria, and some water additives can be dangerous to pets if they drink the water.
Many plant materials traditionally used to decorate at Christmas can be toxic or cause other problems, including mistletoe, holly, lilies, and poinsettias. Silk greenery and flowers can be safer, or at least make sure your festive plants are pet-safe.
Holiday foods can prove too great a temptation for your furry friends to resist, and well-meaning children or guests might slip them a treat that would be better avoided. Chocolate especially can be dangerous for dogs, but too much turkey or other treats can cause problems, especially if your dog manages to get the bones.
Candles are another common holiday danger for pets. Your pet could knock over a candle and start a fire, or even catch on fire themselves if their fur gets in the flame. Candles should always be watched when animals are around, and blown out if you have to leave the room.
Be aware of gifts you or someone else may want to give your pets. You know your animals better than anyone – whether your dog will chew that toy to bits and risk swallowing pieces of it? If he is a heavy chewer, choose one of the almost-indestructible toys like Kongs instead. Cats love toys with ribbons, yarn, etc. but may actually eat the lengths or bite off small parts that are attached with yarn and swallow them, which could lead to a blockage and possibly surgery. Instead, try a catnip mouse without small parts, or a cat fishing pole or similar toy.
If you’re going to be traveling, you’ll have to decide if the pets are staying home or coming with you. In either case, make sure they have identification attached to their collars, since being in a strange situation or with caretakers they are not used to can increase the risk of their being lost. If they are coming with you, bring their own bowls, litter and litterboxes, and food. Even a container of the water they are used to can be helpful, and don’t forget any meds they might need. You might want to look up the number of an emergency vet at your destination. If they are staying home, leave contact information and their vet’s information with the caretaker. It can be helpful for the caretaker to come before you leave to learn the pet’s routine.
Lastly, if fireworks are going to be a part of the New Year celebration, it’s a good idea to make sure the pets are inside in a place that helps them feel secure. The loud noises and flashes can make them panic and run away in fear, so it is safer to have them securely contained where they will be calmer too.
Once again I am gaining experience with a somewhat rare condition affecting one of my pets. Fortunately, I believe it was caught in time and hopefully my dog will improve.
I first noticed that he seemed a bit thin. He's a German Shepherd, nearing his second birthday, from a line of dogs where most of the males reach 150 pounds, so I thought he was just going through a growth spurt and needed more food, so I increased his food by about 20%. A week or so later, he seemed even thinner, so I fed him a little more. Within a few days he started having bowel abnormalities, and I knew something just wasn't right.
Of course, as it always seems to happen, it came up over the holiday weekend, and the vet's office was closed (I live far out in the country and there are few vets nearby). I'm not the patient sort when it comes to my animals being sick, so I read everything I could find, and suddenly all the pieces fell into place (especially with the help of some diagnostic stool photos that I will spare my readers). As I read the list of symptoms, I found comments about seemingly totally unrelated things, such as a tendency to chew wood, and extra aggression in some situations. He lined up almost perfectly with the diagnosis for EPI, Exocrine Pancreatic Insufficiency. Normally I would never suggest that anyone should self-diagnose their pets, but in this case I do have some background experience, there were symptoms that were almost a differential diagnosis on their own (though a test IS performed to confirm the diagnosis), no vet was available, and in my dog's case, the treatment was something that was otherwise safe even if he didn't happen to need it -- digestive enzymes. In fact I had noticed very loud rumbling in his stomach in the past and given him enzymes, which had worked for the stomach noises.
So, I started him on human digestive enzymes, and continued researching. It takes several days to see improvement, and he started getting better right on schedule. I've since gotten pancreatin for him instead, which is approximately 4 times better than the enzymes, and he's been on that for two days, and will hopefully improve even more. There are a few more issues that can come about as side effects of the condition -- he'll probably have to have B-12 injections intermittently for the rest of his life -- but hopefully it will be a long and otherwise healthy and normal life.
As it turns out, EPI is most prevalent in German Shepherd dogs and might someday be seen as a genetic factor that should be screened out in breeding dogs. I knew about hip dysplasia, but this was a new one to me. As much as I love the breed, I am glad to be educated about this now. And I will have to notify his breeder as well, so they can take appropriate measures.
Now, about those two things we promised that will help get your cat to actually use his scratching post ... (continued from part 1 - your cat's need to scratch)
The first is that cats also leave scent on a surface when scratching, as a form of marking. This is why they may be so attracted to your sofa or favorite chair, because it smells like you, and they want to add their own scent. In that case, it can be a good idea to take an article of your clothing that you have worn (preferably during a workout!) and hang it on the scratching post at cat-scratching level, unwashed. (On the other hand, if you have a sofa that perhaps smells like some other animal, that can also be a reason for them to scratch it heavily in an attempt to cover up that other scent, so you might want to deep-clean your furniture in that case.)
The other consideration is to make the scratching post a place that appeals to your cat, so that he wants to hang out there. There are several things to think about.
1. Cats like heights. If the scratching post has places he can climb to and look down from, that will be a big bonus for him.
2. Cats enjoy a view. If you place the scratching post near a window, especially one that has bird or squirrel activity in view (a birdfeeder can be a great idea!), your cat is likely to be drawn to it.
3. If your cat is drawn to catnip, try rubbing some on the vertical scratching area and on any horizontal platforms as well.
4. Cats often like to hide. A good scratching post will have areas that are at least partially enclosed and many cats will be drawn to these. If your cat is especially secretive, it can help to cover any opening with a flap of fabric, making it an even better hideaway.
5. Toys can be another way of enticing your cat. Many cats can’t resist if you move the toy up the side of a scratching post and onto the top, out of his view, and will feel compelled to race up the side after it. Toys which try to “escape” are often irresistible.
One last important point … if you have multiple cats, make sure your scratching post furniture has enough ledges and perches for all of them, and then some. There may still be bickering over favored spots, but that can be minimized by having plenty of perches and hiding places so that each cat can have his own special place.
Many owners contact us wondering whether or not they should get involved in what seems to be dominance issues between their dogs. The first thing we always ask is how serious the struggle appears to be.
If the two dogs are just acting out dominance behaviors and not truly struggling, and there appears to be no danger of either dog being hurt, then we recommend owners not to physically intervene. If of course the dogs become aggressive with one another, they will need to be separated and further measures decided, but coming between dogs who are actually fighting is dangerous for their owners as well. That is a subject too involved for our space here, so today we are talking about dogs that are not becoming truly aggressive.
First, how can you TELL if your dogs are only working it out, or on their way to becoming truly aggressive? The dogs will usually let you know. If there is any snarling, snapping with intent to bite (SOME dogs do this as a display only, but unless you know exactly what is going on, we prefer to treat snapping as a more serious gesture), lunging, stiffened body posture, or a lot of direct, hard staring going on, these are all serious warning signs. These dogs should be separated and the owner needs to seek more indepth help.
If the dogs are simply "talking" making a lot of throaty noises (usually somewhat high pitched), pawing at each other, possibly mounting, placing their chin on the other's shoulder, bumping the other with the shoulder in passing -- these kinds of behaviors are signs that the dogs are making dominance gestures toward one another. If the gestures are coming from the dog that has always been the more dominant one, they are probably only to reinforce their position and are nothing to worry about, especially if the other dog accepts them without a fight, or submits in any way. Good clues may be found in both dogs' tail and ear carriage. The higher the tail, the more dominantly the dog is behaving.
If however it is a younger dog growing up and doing these things to an older dog, or a new dog coming into the home making these gestures to a dog who has been there (unless that dog happily submits to the newcomer), or some similar situation of "dominance upset" the situation will need to be watched carefully, and you might want to get further advice on your particular situation.
As long as the dogs are simply maintaining their order, there is no need for concern. You can help as the owner by not giving signals that conflict with the dogs' own hierarchy. The dog who is already dominant should be fed first, should be petted first, should be the first one released from his crate or out the door, should be given a toy first, etc. Do NOT "feel sorry" for the underdog and try to coddle it in order to "make up" for what the dominant dog does to it. If you do this, you make the subordinate dog "boss" briefly, and you force the dominant dog to re-establish his dominance, meaning that all those behaviors will increase. Even worse, if the subordinate dog actually gets the idea that he IS dominant because you place him in that position, he may fight back for dominance, and you could create a fight where there was none before.
Another consideration is the reproductive status of the dogs. Both males AND females will fight aggressively for dominance. Some people mistakenly believe that only male dogs are aggressively dominant, but unspayed females can be VERY aggressive with one another. Almost all dogs are calmer and easier to get along with once altered, and of course the risk of unwanted puppies is removed. We do recommend that all pet dogs be spayed or neutered.
Lastly, this is really just a simple overview of the question. Dog social interaction evolves and changes with many factors, and can sometimes become complicated. If you are in doubt, don't hesitate to seek out help for your particular situation.
Scratching posts can be great pieces of furniture for the cat-owning home. If introduced in the right way, they can be havens for your kitties, and can also save your furniture from being shredded by sharp claws.
Cats NEED to scratch. Contrary to what you might have heard, they are not sharpening their claws, but rather they are removing a sheath from the claw that encases it as it grows out. This is why you may sometimes find what looks like a claw embedded where a cat likes to scratch. This is the covering of the claw, and needs to be removed. Cats remove the front claw sheaths by scratching, and they remove the rear claw sheaths by chewing them off.
But you don’t want kitty scratching up your couch, your drapes, or your favorite chair. The ideal solution is to provide a surface where the cat IS allowed to scratch, and this is where scratching post furniture comes in. Cats enjoy scratching a number of rough surfaces, including carpet, sisal rope, fabrics, and even the edges of corrugated cardboard. Scratching posts come in all of these materials. Because a cat can have a preference, it is a good idea to buy one with multiple scratching surfaces, if you can.
Are you facing an apartment lease that restricts owning dogs and cats? You are not limited to goldfish in this situation, you can still have a furry friend. Enter the gerbil.
Gerbils have a number of advantages as pets. Because they are small, they eat little and so are economical in terms of pet food. They are inquisitive and friendly, and do not tend to biting if handled properly. They can be kept singly if you have plenty of time to spend with them, or in pairs or small groups. And they are endlessly entertaining!
It's only fair to mention their downsides too, as we want all potential pet owners to go into their responsibilities prepared. Finding out that a pet isn't right for you after you have the pet isn't a good scenario for anyone involved, especially the pet. Gerbils must have their cages cleaned, and can have a bit of odor, especially the males. They live only a few years at best. And while they are often up and active in the daytime, they are also nocturnal and depending on your cage setup, may be noisy at night when you are trying to sleep.
If you have decided to get a gerbil, one of the decisions you will need to make is what to use for cage litter. There are many options available. We recommend NOT using cedar shavings, as these can cause respiratory problems. Each type of litter has advantages and disadvantages, and you can always try different kinds to see what works well for you. Recycled paper litter, corncob, aspen shavings, pine shavings, shredded paper and others are available in pet supply centers. We preferred to use a variety of bedding materials. The wire cages were filled with aspen shavings, and at least one aquarium was filled to within 6" of the top with soil, allowing the gerbils opportunity to burrow as they would naturally. We also provided plain paper towels for them to shred to make a soft bedding, which they often carried to whatever part of their habitat they wanted to line with soft fibers. Another thing you should avoid is anything with long strings as they can get tangled around limbs or swallowed and cause internal problems.
Accessories can make gerbil ownership especially fun. We bought several cages and connected them together with a series of tubes, allowing the gerbils to have an extensive network to explore. We also enjoyed using a clear round ball which the gerbils are placed inside and allowed to run around. Another fun accessory was a wire playpen made of a series of fence panels that can be connected together. We used two to make a large pen. But be aware that gerbils are jumpers and some can escape these pens.
Many free or household items make fun playground accessories for gerbils as well, and providing them with a changing series of these keeps the gerbils active and satisfies their desire to explore, and is also entertaining for owners. Wooden spoons, empty wooden thread spools, cardboard tubes from paper towels or wrapping paper, a series of small boxes connected to make "mazes", small wheeled toys from dollhouses, small balls or marbles, wooden twigs (check to make sure they are of a safe wood -- applewood is good), small chunks of soft pine leftover from building projects, or any safe object you want to offer them.
Some pet toys for other animals are fun for gerbils as well. Wooden ladders made for birds, crunchy dog treats, and bird chewing toys are popular choices.
All of these toys and accessories will keep your pet gerbil active and healthy, and also enrich the time you spend together, making your pet more enjoyable.
So you have a new puppy ... and one of the first things you need to do is begin to establish a routine for training your pet to go outside to "do his business." No one enjoys cleaning up messes in the house, and they can damage your carpet, furniture, and other belongings. So, how do you potty-train your puppy?
1. Routine. Dogs "need" to go at certain times, and if you anticipate this, you can take your puppy to the place you want him to use. Puppies generally need to poop upon waking up, a few minutes after eating, after vigorous play, and it's a good idea to give them a last chance at night before putting them to bed as they likely at least need to pee then. All of these activities should happen at roughly the same times every day, so the dog gets used to his schedule.
2. Location. Take advantage of a dog's natural instinct to keep his den clean. Puppies should be given a crate to sleep in that is large enough to stand up and turn around, but no larger. This will make the entire area his "bed" and he won't want to soil his bed. The puppy should be taken out of the crate as soon as he wakes up and go outside.
3. You should take the puppy to his "spot" and wait for him. Don't play, don't try to engage him in any other activity. He is there to use the bathroom. You can use a "word" for him if you want to train him to go on command, and he will slowly begin to associate it with pottying. I usually tell my dogs, "Hurry up."
4. When your puppy goes in the place you have chosen for him, praise him. If you use a word, you can incorporate that in the praise to help him learn faster. I usually say "Good boy!!! Hurry up, good hurry up, Good Boy!!!" and pet him.
5. Learn your puppy's cues. Some dogs seek a faraway place to "hide" when they have to go, some circle around sniffing the ground, some will return to a certain spot inside. Watch your puppy and the instant the behavior starts, ask him if he needs to go potty, and take him.
6. Mistakes often do happen. If you CATCH the dog about to go, you can use a sharp word, "Wait!" and scoop him up and carry him to his place as quickly as you can. (Be aware you may want to hold him away from you as some puppies cannot stop) Once there, don't scold him anymore, but instead praise him for finishing in the right place.
7. If you find out after the fact that your dog used the bathroom in the house, put the dog away where he cannot see you and clean it up. Scolding or punishing a puppy after he has forgotten what he did is of little or no value. Whatever you do, do NOT rub the puppy's nose in a mess or you may teach him to eat messes in order to clean them up. If necessary, use an enzymatic cleaner to remove any smell so your dog won't later return to the same place.
8. While we don't recommend it, if it is absolutely necessary to teach a dog to go indoors, there are products you can buy that will encourage this (such as Piddle Pads). If you are using newspaper, keep a lower layer from a soiling when you clean things up, and add that to the clean papers to provide a bit of scent to the area.
9. Once your dog has learned to go outside, you may want to give him a way to signal you. We usually hang a large bell from the doorknob and teach the dog to bump it with his nose when he needs to go outside. Be aware that your dog should have plenty to engage his mind ... if he is bored he will likely ask you to play doorman for him!
10. Remember that some breeds are more difficult to housetrain than others, and some dogs will learn faster than others. I have seen (and owned) dogs that made few or no mistakes and were reliably housebroken within days, and others that took much longer. Consistency is the key ... the closer you can get to the dog ALWAYS using the preferred area because you took him there in time, the faster and more reliably he is going to learn.
Many of our readers are probably familiar with the Monks of New Skete, but if you haven't read this book, you are missing out. The Monks are experienced at breeding, raising, and training generations of German Shepherd Dogs and this book is the result of years of successful puppy rearing. You will gain a new understanding of the stages that puppies go through, and strategies for properly dealing with the challenges of each one. Communication with your growing puppy is a key, and will help you tackle common problems from puppies that chew up everything to those that jump up excitedly every time they see you. Learn how to effectively housetrain your dog and avoid accidents. The principles covered in this book will go a long way toward showing you how to raise a companion that you can take pride in, and enjoy being with. Your dog will thank you!
Many clients ask us our opinion of the "Alpha dog" training concept.
I want to be careful in how I answer this, because what one person means by "alpha training" may not be the same as what another means.
In general, yes, the person needs to be in charge of the dog. We do recommend such things as teaching your dog to sit and stay while you place the food bowl down, and wait until they are told they may eat (but we do not recommend drawing this out into some kind of contest of wills ... a few moment's pause is plenty).
We also recommend teaching a dog to sit and wait at a door for permission to go through, rather than ever allowing a dog to simply shove his way through an open door. This can be dangerous if there is traffic, if there are people who may be frightened by the dog outside, if there are other animals outside dangerous to the dog, and it is just plain bad manners.
We believe owners should be in charge of where the dog is allowed, whether the dog is allowed to get on the furniture, etc. The dog should NEVER be the one sitting on the bed, growling at his owners and threatening them and not allowing them on the bed.
If this is your idea of alpha dog training, then by all means, be the alpha. You are meant to be in charge, and not the dog. We accomplish these kinds of things by training the dog to sit, stay, lie down, and having a release word that lets the dog know when he is free to do as he likes.
If your idea of alpha dog training is forcing the dog into submission through the use of an alpha roll, neck shaking and snarling at him, etc. well .... honestly, there can be a time and place for such tactics, but they are not necessary for the vast majority of dogs and not suited to the experience of the average trainer. In all the dogs I have handled and worked with, these kinds of tactics were needed with only one of them -- a super dominant, super intelligent, very large male German Shepherd, who incidentally turned out to be the best dog I've ever owned and who lived a long and productive life as my full-time companion and worked like an extension of my own arm, almost never needing any correction or even a leash. He was descended from a long line of working German police and protection dogs and was a very special case.
I've known other dogs that, if they had been treated in this way, would respond by become emotionally shut down, becoming fear biters, and having other negative reactions as a result.
The truth is, no one method works for every dog. Some dogs are ultra-sensitive and can't even handle being spoken to sternly, while others seem to be oblivious to any kind of verbal or physical correction. For these dogs, and all the ones that fall in between, the best training method in the hands of most trainers is usually a reward-based one. Tiny treats, best given at intervals and not for EVERY behavior is the fastest way for most people to get most dogs to become good companions, and since that is usually the desired end result, that is what we usually recommend.
Many cats who are perfectly comfortable at home get so nervous and stressed when taken to the vet that their owners dread taking them, and may even avoid getting regular checkups for that reason.
There are several things you can do in advance to make trips to the vet as stress-free as possible.
One important factor is the cat’s carrier. Ideally it should open from the front AND have an easily removable top. Instead of pulling the carrier out only when a trip to the vet is imminent, the carrier should be out at all times. Allow the cat to explore it, and encourage your pet to enter and enjoy the carrier by placing soft bedding inside (some pets are comforted by having an item of their owner’s clothing for bedding), offering treats inside, and never allowing anything frightening to happen to the cat while they are exploring the carrier.
Getting the cat used to the car can help as well. Once the cat is comfortable with the carrier, lock the cat inside and place the carrier in the car, buckling it in securely so it doesn’t slide around, and covering it with a towel. You can speak to your pet to comfort it, offer treats, place your hands near the opening to touch your pet – whatever your pet finds comforting. If this part is particularly stressful for your cat, it is best to move slowly … first putting the carrier in the car for a few minutes, then taking them back inside. Later starting the engine and letting in run for a few minutes, then returning them to the home. Finally taking short trips. In this way, you can slowly acclimate your cat to being in the car.
If you cat is very fearful of dogs, you might be able to find a vet that offers separate waiting rooms, or one that will have a room available at a set time so that you won’t have to expose your cat to rambunctious dogs in the waiting room.
In the same way that you accustom your cat to being in the carrier, you can also get her used to being handled. Go slowly and gently, and reward the cat after each session, but get the cat used to being scruffed, being flipped over, having his tail raised while lying on his stomach.
You can also make use of a cat pheromone product called Feliway that is meant to mimic the scent of relaxed, happy cats. Another product that may prove helpful is Bach’s Rescue Remedy, which can usually be purchased and health food stores, and added to the cat’s water.
The answer to that question is going to depend on the pets, and on the owners. So I have to say yes, and no.
First the no. If you don’t want your pet sleeping with you, you certainly don’t have to allow them to. They can be just fine on their own. A puppy can be provided with a secure crate with soft bedding, and it will become like a den to him that he retreats to when he wants to rest or “get away”. A cat can also be provided a bed, or may like a nook in a tall scratching post.
Other reasons not to allow your pets to sleep with you are if they are badly behaved and it prevents you from getting a good night’s sleep. You can train them to behave and eventually allow them in the bed if you like, but daytime obedience is the place to start. If you are allergic to your pet, they should really not be allowed in the room where you sleep at all if you are going to manage your allergies and keep your pet. The same may be true if you have asthma and the pet triggers attacks. If you have severe immunological problems, it probably isn’t a good idea to let your pets on your bed. Babies should not have pets in the bed with them. And pets who are suspect as far as their health, have fleas or parasites, should not be allowed in the bed until these issues are resolved.
If you do decide to allow your pets to sleep with you, you can make matter easier on yourself by looking for sturdy, easily washed coverlets to put over your regular blankets. You should of course keep your pet clean and well-groomed. If your pet goes outside, you may find it useful to keep washcloths or towels that are for the pet only and used to clean their feet when they return inside, especially if it’s muddy outside. And if your pet begins to find it difficult to get on your bed, due to age or other problems, or if they are too small to easily jump up, there are all kinds of pet steps available to allow them to climb up more easily.
One thing you want to be sure of is to decide when you first get the pet if you plan to allow it on the bed. Many people make the mistake of allowing a puppy on the bed because it is cute (which I wouldn’t necessarily recommend anyway until the puppy is well housetrained!), only to expect it to stay off the bed when it grows larger. It is much harder to change an animal’s habits once he has become used to sleeping on your bed, so be fair to the dog and make it easy on yourself and decide one way or another.
As for myself, I never used to allow my dogs on my bed because I knew they would grow to be well over 100 pounds. Instead, I provided them with a fleece or pillow bed beside my bed, and they were “with” me just as much as if they’d been in the bed, since they could easily reach me. I did not allow my cats in the bedroom at night when they were young, since they tended to go a bit crazy in the middle of the night and run over my face, but when one cat developed asthma and had to have her breathing monitored all night, I started allowing her to sleep with me, and she had the good manners to curl up near my feet and not move or bother me until after I awoke.
Every situation is different, and you should not feel guilty whatever you decide. You are the owner, and whether you decide to allow your pets on your bed with you or not, we are here to help.
Scottish Fold are very unique cats. Although dogs come in a wide range of sizes, shapes, colors, coat types, and many other features, cats are much less variable. There ARE a number of very distinct cat breeds, but most of them don’t exaggerate features to the degree that dogs do, which always makes for a surprise when a breed does stand out in its physical features.
One such interesting cat is the Scottish Fold. The ear is folded in many of these cats, giving a unique appearance to the breed. (There are also non-folded cats of the breed.) The original Scottish Fold cats had a single fold in their ears, but they have since been bred to have two or even three folds, giving some of the cats an almost earless appearance. Scottish Folds are medium sized with a rounded body. Their large round eyes, spaced far apart, give them an especially endearing gaze, paired with their folded ears and rounded whisker pads and short nose. They really are the “baby faces” of the cat world.
They tend to be affectionate and get along well with their family and other pets in the household. They also tend to be very talkative, but not in the same way as Siamese or similar breeds, having much softer voices and a different set of meows all their own.
Not all Scottish Folds have folded ears. In fact, ethical breeders avoid breeding two cats with folded ears together as the chance of painful degenerative disease in some of the kittens is greatly increased.
The breed is fairly recently established (1966), all being descended from a single female kitten named Snooks, who was the fold-eared daughter of a barn cat called Susie who was found to have folded ears.
What is it about this herb that causes some cats to go into what looks like a drug-induced stupor, and is it bad for them?
Catnip is a member of the mint family, and is easily grown from seed. Many cats react to this herb in one of two ways. Either they will appear to be “doped up” and act very lazy and lethargic, or on the other hand they could become very excited, rolling around and scratching at the ground and air and playing so energetically that they actually seem aggressive (and may in fact become over-excited and attack humans or other pets in their play).
Not all cats react to catnip though. The ability to appreciate catnip is genetic, and only a little over half of all cats will respond to it. It is also something they “grow into.” Young kittens will not react at all until they reach around three months of age.
Despite the seemingly drug-like qualities of catnip for some cats, it isn’t at all dangerous or harmful to them. In fact, you can use your cat’s reaction to catnip to some advantage. If your cat becomes relaxed with catnip, trying sprinkling some in his carrier so that he becomes more relaxed and more willing to enter it on his own, making future trips to the vet or other places less stressful. If he becomes very excited, use catnip filled toys to entice him to play and exercise. You can also use catnip to attract either kind of cat to a scratching post in an attempt to get him to scratch there instead of on your favorite chair (though catnip might not be the best attractant – we’ll tell you why an old unwashed shirt of yours may be better!).
Catnip can be purchased dried, but it is also very easy to grow from seed. If you decide to grow your own, keep it away from the cat until it is well-established. You can then try the cat with it to see his reaction. Some may just nibble a bit, but many will get so excited that they may destroy the plant. In that case, you may want to simply trim off a little green for him when you like. You can also use older stemmy parts as a toy twirled or dragged in front of him.
So there is nothing to worry about, your kitty can safely enjoy this herb (if he is one of the lucky ones!) and you can enjoy watching him indulge.
Just wanted to share this. I love watching animal videos on YouTube, but this one makes me smile every time I see it.
As an aside, you should know that cats can become very over-stimulated by playing with their bellies. That is why many cats will scratch wildly when played with in this way. There are a few cats (mine included) that actually like to have their bellies rubbed, but this sort of play is very likely to end with scratches.
That being said though, this kitty with his paws up in the air between bouts of being tickled is just toooo cute.
I was first introduced to these charming and amazing dogs by my cousin. A true American breed, they were developed in South Carolina by hunters who needed a dog for duck and turkey hunting along the river. Because boats were often used in hunting, the dog had to be small enough. They are named for “Whit” Boykin, who worked with many breeds of dogs to develop the Boykin spaniel, beginning with a stray named Dumpy. Dumpy took up with a friend of Boykin, who recognized the dog’s aptitude for retrieving, and gifted him to Boykin, who trained him and watched the dog develop into a wonderful retriever and turkey dog. Because of his talents, Boykin used him as the foundation dog for his line of retrieving spaniels. Other breeds used in developing the Boykin spaniel include the springer spaniel, Chesapeake Bay retriever, American water spaniel, and the cocker spaniel.
These dogs have retained their penchant for retrieving, and are often used for a variety of game hunting from dove, quail, turkey, pheasant, duck, grouse, and are even sometimes used as deer dogs. All that wrapped up in a beautiful package with a soft coat and soulful eyes, the Boykin is not common, but is a family favorite with those who know them.
We recently visited a new vet who is much closer to our home to pick up some needed supplies and make an appointment to have our young males neutered. While there, we discovered that they keep several large cages of kittens. These kittens were from litters by local feral females. There are several individuals in our community who find these young wild families, trap the mothers (who are then spayed), and begin the work of socializing the young kittens, while treating them for the parasites, skin conditions, etc. that commonly plague these kittens who are uncared-for except for what their mothers (usually very young and unhealthy cats themselves) are able to provide for them.
When the kittens are brought to the clinic, they are further socialized, and taken home by employees to learn “house manners.” When they are in good health and friendly, the clinic offers them for adoption. The very nominal adoption fee of $30 covers any medication the kitten may still require, further boarding and treatment until it is ready to be discharged, if any is required, as well as all vaccinations (including rabies) and spaying or neutering. All vet care necessary for the first year is included for this low $30 fee.
Normally, these services would be worth several hundred dollars, depending upon the animal’s sex and condition. We were touched and surprised that a local professional and his employees are doing so much to help with the pet overpopulation in the community and find the animals good homes and help ensure their ongoing health at the same time.
The next time you are looking to add a pet to your family, call around to area vets and see if anyone is doing a community service of this type in your area. Support these businesses, and give a pet a good home.
Pets are members of our families, and anyone who has ever had a pet go missing knows the heartbreak and anxiety an owner feels when faced with lost pets. We were unfortunate enough to experience this a couple of years ago when our black Maine Coon cat sneaked out through an open door and disappeared.
My daughter was heartbroken, as he was her special pet. We visited the shelters, and the neighborhood was plastered with fliers with a photo of Lucky on them, begging people to call if he was found. Weeks went by, and our hopes began to fade. We still checked the shelters, and still looked hopefully around nearby neighborhoods, but the chances of getting him back were becoming slimmer.
Unfortunately, we discovered him on the side of the road, a month and a half after he had gone missing. He had been killed by a car. But other than that, he was in good condition. Obviously, someone had taken him in and been caring for him. We never found out how near he was to us the whole time, but perhaps the person caring for him didn't see our fliers. I wish there had been a better way to contact everyone within the nearby area to search for him during that time he was missing.
We have found such a service available, started by another cat owner who hasn't recovered her pet either. (By the way, the photos of her cat on the site show a well-named cat, a very lovely "Cutie McPretty" ... our condolences to Cutie's owner, and hopes that she finds her pet, especially since she is helping others to find their pets.)
The service at FindToto lets owners who have lost dogs, cats, or other pets fill out an information form about the animal and where it was lost along with their contact information. FindToto then contacts hundreds (you select how many based on the population where the pet was lost) of people in the area by phone to let them know your lost pet's information and how to contact you.
The service seems to be quite effective. I read the testimonial page and was surprised to see how many people found dogs and cats based on calls from people who had been notified. In many cases, several people call with information about the missing pet, because a number of people will have seen the pet and hopefully someone has taken it in and will also respond. Even in cases where the pet is frightened and hiding, it is possible to find the cat or dog when a neighbor calls to tell you that your pet is hiding in the field near their house.
We thought this was a wonderful service. We hope that you never need to use a service like FindToto.com, but if you do, it's good to know that such a service is available. It's also nice to keep it in mind in case someone you know loses a pet too. I only wish we'd had such a service available when our Lucky went missing. It's been a couple of years now, but our daughter still thinks of him and we all still miss him. He was a wonderful companion.
I just wanted to share a website I ran across with a unique and witty twist ... it's written by a dog! Gary, the Sensitive Brown Dog, uses his keen dog-sense perspective to provide you with great information about man's best friend!
Including everything from Gary's perspective on designer dogs (essentially mutts) to his opinion of homemade vs. commercial foods, and much more. You'll find guidance on choosing your pet's name and dealing with nuisance barking. There are tips on boarding your furry friend while you are away, such as leaving a t-shirt belonging to the owner to comfort your pet. As a rescue dog, Gary encourages those seeking a pet to consider rescuing an animal from a shelter.
I'm not quite sure why the doggie necessities list includes "one toy" ... but I'm pretty sure Gary means it as a minimum. On the other hand, Gary considers doggie clothing a necessity only "if you want your dog to hate you"!
We found the site amusing, and look forward to future developments there.
A scratching post can offer your cat hours of enjoyment. Depending upon its design, a good scratching post can promote enticing play including both physical exercise as well as mental stimulation. Some models provide platforms for cats to rest upon or to hide within, allowing them to choose a spot that is raised up high or one that is secluded, depending upon the individual cat's preferences. Your selection of a scratching post should take into consideration your own cat's personality and needs in order to provide the maximum enjoyment for your pet.
For cats that need to use the post to actually scratch upon, the surface should be rough in order to encourage the cat to dig its claws in. Sisal is a favorite of many cats, but we also thought the rough cedar scratching posts were a great choice. Carpet-covered posts may encourage scratching, but you run the risk of training your cat to scratch carpet, which may then transfer to your floor carpeting. Our recommendation for most cats is to choose a scratching post that incorporates some other rough surface in addition to carpeting, if your cat is to actually scratch it. Corrugated cardboard is another favorite rough surface that many cats enjoy, and can be used to apply dried catnip directly into the corrugating, though these posts or trays will need to be replaced periodically.
Another important feature to look for when evaluating the entertainment value of cat furniture is toy anchoring spots. Look for the ability to anchor toys that will hang / swing / spin. Another great feature shown in this cedar scratching post is the "mousehole" effect that encloses a small ball that will retreat when a cat tries to reach in for it, but returns to entice the cat to attempt to capture it when released.
For the best value in cat furniture, look for a piece that will suit a variety of needs all in one unit. Some of the Armarkat scratching posts offer some of the best value by offering high open perches, closed in hidey-hole cubbies, staggered tiers for climbing, horizontal and vertical scratching surfaces, and toy anchoring spots all within a single piece of furniture. Their prices also tend to be quite competitive, and consumers rate them as being sturdy enough to withstand their cats' antics.
Having a larger piece of cat furniture can be especially important in multi-cat households. Giving each cat a place within the scratching stand can help cut down on fights and keep all the felines happy at the same time.
To search for scratching posts, we used an pet product shopping site that returned a lot of relevant results that can easily be searched by category or arranged by price, etc. Pet owners can easily find a wide variety of styles suited to their particular pet just by browsing through such services. It can be helpful to discover products you may not even have realized existed. (On the same site, we discovered that noise-sensitive dog owners can purchase squeaky dog toys that squeak only in the range of doggie-hearing, so the dog can squeak to his heart's content and the owner never has to hear it!)
In response to a reader question, we want to cover the common topic of cats that urinate outside of their litterboxes.
Unfortunately, I can't easily address the problem our reader is having, because there can be a number of reasons why a cat may begin to do this. It is important to find the cause, for the sake of the cat's health and so that the problem can be solved.
The first thing the cat owner should consider is the health of the cat. Today's commercial foods have unfortunately caused a much higher incidence of FLUTD (Feline lower urinary trace disease) ... you might be more familiar with the older term of FUS (Feline Urinary Syndrome). FLUTD causes the cat to have painful urination, which he may then associate with the litterbox. Because he is afraid that going to the litterbox will once again cause the pain during urination, he is likely to seek out other places to urinate. FLUTD also causes more frequent need to urinate, and the cat may be unable to reach the litterbox even if he wants to.
The reason this needs to be considered first is that the health of the cat can be at stake, and if FLUTD is the cause, the condition can deteriorate while the owner tries to determine if other reasons are the cause of the problem. (If you KNOW why your cat is doing this, that may be another story.)
If that is not the cause, then there are other things to consider. First, if you have recently had the cat declawed, he should be given something soft in his litterbox until the wounds heal. Many vets recommend shredded newspaper, but there are products available. You should NOT use clay litter, clumping litter, sand, or any other abrasive substance, as this will be very painful on paws that have just had surgery.
Cats will often urinate to show their displeasure. If they are urinating on a particular person's belongings, bed, carpet, etc., consider whether that person has done anything to upset the cat. Cats can take a long time to forgive, and are masters at holding a grudge!
If you have recently added a new cat to the family, that may be the cause as well. If the new cat is using "his" litterbox, your cat may feel insecure, jealous, or for some other reason unwilling to use the same litterbox. Often multi-cat households must have multiple litterboxes to keep everyone happy.
Have you recently moved to a new home, moved the litterbox, changed the box or brand of litter, or made any other changes? Cats are creatures of habit, routine, and territory, and upsetting any of these can result in problems with urinating outside the litterbox. If things can be returned to normal, that may solve the problem. Otherwise, the cat may need extra attention and might benefit from being confined in a smaller area until he gets used to the new surroundings.
Is the litterbox clean? I used to have a cat that would urinate in the litterbox, but if he used it to defecate, he refused to re-enter it until it had been cleaned. He would then give me a "warning" by going into the bathtub for the next visit, but if I somehow missed cleaning up before he needed the litterbox again, the next time he needed a toilet, he'd visit my bed! Some cats are VERY meticulous. In such cases, it might be wise to have several litterboxes to choose from so he can select one that meets his cleanliness standards.
Cats may also have had some unfortunate experience around the litterbox. Did a broom fall and bang loudly on the litterbox cover while he was in there? Did a strange dog rush in and bark at him while he was using the litterbox? Anything that upsets him while he is in there can make him reluctant to return.
And cats do mark their territories, by spraying urine. This is most common in intact adult males, but neutered males and even females will sometimes do this. If you see the cat urinating, you can tell whether this is what is happening. Instead of the normal semi-squat, a cat who is spraying will stand with his tail quivering in the air and spray behind him -- usually onto a vertical surface. This is usually territorial, but can be brought on by having another cat around, stress, changes in surroundings, a new person being introduced, etc.
All of these are just to give you some ideas of some of the most common reasons cats may begin to avoid their litterboxes. Knowing the cause is the first step in solving the problem.
There are some general guidelines to follow whatever the reason may be. The first step is to find a litter your cat likes. Many cats like the fine clumping brands, and don't usually care for heavily perfume ones. The cheaper clay brands are, unfortunately, not popular with cats (nor do they do a good job of absorbing odor or offer easy clean-up). Make sure the litterbox is large enough, and the cat can comfortably and easily get in and out. Place the box in a quiet location so that the cat can be relatively undisturbed and have some privacy. Some cats like the covered boxes, while others do not. If you have multiple cats, make sure you have boxes for each cat (and an extra or two is a good idea too). Scoop the box frequently ... at least once a day. Change the litter completely once a week or so, and wash the box as well, rinsing well too, if you don't use a liner.
You will want to thoroughly clean the place the cat used outside the litterbox, to cover the scent so the cat won't be tempted to return. As our reader mentioned, ammonia-based cleaners (or those that contain any ammonia) can make the problem worse, because when the cat smells the ammonia, he will usually want to urinate over it to give it his own scent.
If the urine is fresh, you may be able to take care of it simply by blotting it up, wetting the area, blotting again, and cleaning with vinegar or baking soda.
First, blot the area with a clean white cloth, removing as much of the urine as possible. Follow with a warm-water rinse, and blot that up. Repeat if needed. You can then sprinkle baking soda over the area and rub it in (a toothbrush works well) and allow it to dry, and then vacuum it up. If you'd like to try vinegar instead, go through the same blot-and-rinse process, then add 1/2 cup of white vinegar to a quart of warm water and apply that to the area (test first on an inconspicuous spot). Place a white towel over the area and apply pressure (you may want to place something very heavy there and leave it for a few hours.). Blot it up again after a few hours. Hopefully one of these methods will take care of fresh urine. However, if it has set for a while, soaked in, or stained the area, you will need a specialty product.
Cleaners are available to remove the urine scent ... check with a local pet shop or veterinarian for the best chance at locating one. Look for a product that uses enzymes and/or bacteria to "consume" the odor rather than a simple detergent-type product that you might find at mass outlets (like Wal-Mart). It is worth it to buy a product that will accomplish the job rather than have to keep cleaning the same mess and meanwhile having your cat more and more convinced that he should be urinating outside his litterbox.
Several such products include Just for Cats (Nature's Miracle), Urine Off, Urine Gone, Outright Pet Stain Eliminator, and Pet Oops Remover.
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